470-year-old oyster ceremony is scuppered by health and safety... and a seasick mayor
By Andrew Levy
Since Tudor times, the opening of Colchester's oyster season has been marked with a solemn ceremony headed by the mayor.
After helping to dredge up the first catch of the year, the Essex town's first citizen toasts the monarch with gin and gingerbread before sampling the sea's bounty.
But now, after 470 years, the event is set to be held on land for the first time because the current mayor gets seasick.
Colchester mayor Cllr Sonia Lewis for the first time in 470 years the town's oyster ceremony will be held on land as the mayor suffers from seasickness
In a further snub to tradition, Sonia Lewis will not even eat any oysters because she can't stand them - proclaiming herself 'a fish and chips girl'.
And in a final blow, the ceremony seems unlikely to take place on the ocean wave ever again because of health and safety concerns after the last mayor nearly fell in to the water.
The sudden downgrading of one of the town's oldest ceremonies has horrified locals who say it is good for publicity.
But Mrs Lewis was unrepentant, suggesting the decision meant disabled people would be able to attend - even though landlubbers, whether able-bodied or not, have rarely witnessed it in the past and never complained.
Back in the day: A former mayor inspects the catch at a previous oyster ceremoney. It seems unlikely it will take place at sea again because of health and safety concerns after the last mayor nearly fell in to the water
'I have never been able to go to the opening of the fisheries because of my inability to tolerate tidal waters - and other councillors have been in the same boat,' she said.
'This year those who also suffer sea sickness, such as [Cllr] Jackie Maclean, will also be able to attend.
'Having the ceremony on land also means it will be accessible to the disabled. We hope it will be an inclusive and happy occasion. I am looking forward to it enormously.'
She added it remained uncertain whether next year's season would be opened at sea after her predecessor, Henry Spyvee, nearly ended up in the drink while transferring between boats in choppy waters.
'The jury is still out on that one. If the next mayor wants to go back on the water there are a couple of health and safety issues that need to be addressed,' Mrs Lewis said. 'The mayor nearly fell overboard last year, so we had to look at the risk anyway.'
Colchester was sold a charter giving it control of local fishing in 1189 when King Richard I needed to raise money for a crusade.
In 1540, the town began formally celebrating its autonomy and the event continues to be held on the first Friday of September in Pyefleet Creek.
The occasion begins with the Proclamation, an ancient text that is read out by the chief executive to declare the fishery open for the season.
The mayor, who is dressed in full ceremonial regalia, then proposes a toast to the monarch of the day, which is accompanied by eating gingerbread and drinking gin, before the first dredge for oysters is made over the side of the boat.
The catch is then used to provide lunch for around 40 dignitaries on a sailing barge.
But Mrs Lewis announced: 'I am not keen on fish generally - I am more of a fish and chips girl.'
Finally, a message is sent to the monarch, stating the mayor and councillors have opened 'Colne Oyster Fishery for the coming season' and 'will drink to your Majesty's long life and health and request respectfully to offer your Majesty their expressions of dutiful loyalty and devotion'.
The monarch then returns their thanks for the good wishes.
This year, the event will be held at landlocked Cudmore Grove Country Park in East Mersea, Essex, where the mayor will be handed a plate of oysters by West Mersea mayor John May.
Graham Larkin, operations manager at Colchester Oyster Fisheries, which supplies shelfish around the world including to restaurants such as the Ritz in London, said: 'We got a letter last week telling us and it is a bit disappointing. It did not mention the mayor being seasick.
'It is a sea-based industry and sea-based ceremony and the barge is usually floating above where the oysters are. It is always goood for publicity.'
Richard Haward, 64, a seventh generation oyster dredger, said: 'It's a 500-year-old tradition and the charter dates back to the 12th century - that is why they have the ceremony.
'It usually happens where the oysters are, not in the park. It takes away from the point of it.'
The decision is the second blow in as many years to Colchester's world-famous oyster industry.
Last year it hit the headlines when its produce was blamed for an outbreak of food poisoning at Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck restaurant.
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